If you’ve worked on many arcade games, you might have come across a problem where your picture does not fill up the entirety of your screen even after you’ve tried multiple potentiometer adjustments. It could be that this problem is related to a part on your monitor chassis called the horizontal width coil. In this post, we will discuss how to adjust the horizontal width coil so that the picture fills your screen on your arcade monitor.

Adjusting The Horizontal Width Coil

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuTlChCko4k

Before you begin, we highly recommend purchasing a plastic or non-conductive alignment tool kit. These kits come with plastic tools that are specifically used to adjust these kinds of parts. You can use an Allen wrench to adjust the horizontal width coil, however, there are many down sides to doing this. For one, an Allen wrench generates a lot of torque that could cause your coil to crack or break. Also, you must have the game off while you are using the Allen wrench to adjust the coil. If the game is on when doing this the Allen wrench will heat up and can burn your hands not to mention that you will be navigating around some very high voltage areas with a piece of metal in your hand. Take our recommendation and purchase a plastic or non-conductive alignment tool kit.

Buy the Non-Conductive Alignment Tool Set, 5 Pc. from Amazon.com now!

Buy the Universal Color TV Alignment Tool Kit from HAPP Controls now!

Please make sure to be careful around your chassis if you are attempting to adjust the coil while the game is on. Should you make contact with any high voltage areas on your chassis you could receive a bad shock. Be very cautious at all times when attempting this process. Also, it’s a good idea to set up a mirror in a position where you can the results that are caused from your adjustment.

Now that you have the correct tools and setup, it is time to adjust the horizontal width coil. Take your alignment tool and carefully place it into the coil and attempt to turn it. You may need to turn it clockwise and counter-clockwise a couple of times to loosen it up. Try not to force it too hard as too much torque even with the alignment tool can break your coil. If you cannot get it to turn or do not see a change in your monitor you might try leaving the monitor on for about an hour and retrying this process. This should cause the coil to heat up making it more easy to adjust.

If you have tried the techniques we’ve mentioned and you still do not see the changes you want, you could have more of a capacitor problem than a horizontal width coil problem. Look around your coil and see if you can find any polypropylene capacitors. These capacitors typically look like rather large pieces of Chiclets chewing gum and also control the picture width. Try replacing these capacitors to see if it changes your picture. You could also try checking your B+ voltage adjustment on your chassis. If the value of it is incorrect (it should be 120 VDC on most monitors) then this could also cause some picture size issues.

A Polypropylene Capacitor

Buy a Monitor Width Cap Kit from Bob Roberts now!

If you deal with enough arcade games you will eventually come across this problem where the picture does not fill up the entirety of your screen. Knowing how to adjust the horizontal width coil as well as the other measures we described should help you greatly in solving these issues in the future. As always, please leave any questions or suggestions in the comments section below.

The majority of problems you will encounter with arcade monitors will involve working with the monitor chassis. In order to properly work on or repair a monitor chassis, we must be able to remove it from our arcade cabinet. In this post, we will discuss how to remove and install a monitor chassis from an arcade monitor so that we can make any necessary repairs to it.

Removing And Installing A Monitor Chassis

www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNnbEPY7DVM

Before you begin, we recommend unplugging or turning off the power to your arcade game. As we’ve talked about in previous posts, monitors hold an extremely high amount of voltage which can be very dangerous to you should you come in contact with it. Always be safe and take the time to make sure that your arcade game is unplugged when working with the monitor.

On that same note, the first thing we are going to do when attempting to remove a monitor chassis is to disconnect the power wires going to it. Most games use a Molex connector between the power supply and the monitor chassis which allows for a clean and easy disconnect. If your monitor chassis doesn’t have this Molex connector, you might need to cut the wires in order to remove the chassis. If you end up cutting the wires, you might consider installing a Molex connector to make it easier on you in the future. Please see our post on Installing A Molex Connector for more information.

Once we have disconnected power from the arcade monitor, we can remove the anode cup from the tube. Removing the anode cup is very similar to discharging the monitor. The main difference is that instead of just sticking the screwdriver up underneath the anode cup and waiting for a pop, we are going to use the screwdriver to push the prongs of the anode cup together so that we can remove it from the tube. For more information on this please see our post on how to Safely Discharge An Arcade Monitor.

Now that we have removed the anode cup from the tube, we can move on to unplugging the neck board. The neck board is connected to the very back end of the tube. It is usually a square circuit board and has wires connected from it to the main chassis. It might also have a ground wire attached to it from the monitor tube. If it does, make sure that you cut or unplug this wire before trying to remove it. The neck board should come off pretty easy with just a light amount of force. Sometimes you might find that someone used silicon or another adhesive to keep the neck board in place. It is best to remove this before trying to remove the neck board.

With the neck board unplugged, we can now locate and unplug the degaussing coil and yoke wires from the monitor chassis. The degaussing coil runs around the monitor tube and plugs into the monitor chassis via a two prong connector. The yoke wires come off the monitor tube and attach to the chassis via a four prong connector. The connector for the yoke wires is usually keyed with a wider space between one of the outside pins and the rest to make it easy to hook up. If your monitor chassis has two places where the yoke wires can plug in, make sure to remember which set of pins you removed it from. Locate and unplug both sets of connectors.

Next, we are going to located and detach the video wires coming from the board or PCB. These wires are responsible for making sure that your monitor gets the image the board is sending it. Sometime these wires might be split into multiple connectors. Make sure that you notice how these connectors are plugged in before attempting to remove them. Locate this connector and remove it from your chassis.

After all of these steps have been completed, you should be able to unscrew the chassis from the mounting bracket and remove it from your arcade cabinet. If your ground wire was not attached to your neck board like we talked about earlier, make sure that you detach it from the chassis before attempting removal. With your chassis removed, you can now take steps to repair it or send it off.

Installing the chassis back into your arcade cabinet is as easy as doing these steps in reverse. One item to note is that your neck board is keyed and only goes one way. Make sure that you look at both the back of the tube and the neck board so that you can line them up correctly to each other. If you have any questions or suggestions about this post, please leave them in the comments section below.

Sometimes when you move a game you might find that your monitor has some areas of discoloration or that your once bright colors now appear somewhat washed out. This might be due in part to some unwanted magnetic fields interfering with your screen. In this post, we’ll discuss how to use a degaussing coil to solve the issues caused by these fields.

Using A Degaussing Coil

www.youtube.com/watch?v=xboO2JUvtBM

Before we get started, let’s talk about what a degaussing coil does. The job of the degaussing coil is to demagnetize the shadow mask which is similar to a metal mesh plate located inside your tube. The holes in this plate are aligned to ensure that the electrons from the red, green and blue cathode guns reach the same colored phosphors on the monitor. Should this plate become magnetized, the color and focus of your screen can suffer. Hopefully by demagnetizing the shadow mask you can solve some of the discoloration and focus problems you might be having. Please see our links below for more information on purchasing a degaussing coil.

Buy a Degaussing Coil (CRTs Less Than 19″) from Amazon.com now!

Buy a Degaussing Coil from Arcade Shop now!

Once you have purchased a degaussing coil, you can begin the process of degaussing your monitor. First off, make sure that you have the degaussing coil plugged in and that the power to your arcade game is on. Take the degaussing coil and hold it to the center of your monitor screen. Press the button to active the degaussing coil and move it in small circles across the front of your monitor. Slowly begin to widen the circles as you back away from the monitor. As you do this you will notice the degaussing effect on the monitor start to dwindle. Keep repeating the circles until the coil has no effect on the monitor then release the button. You have now completed the process of degaussing your monitor.

At this point, you might want to check your screen to see if it made a difference in your picture. We sometimes repeat this process if we didn’t get the desired effect the first time. Remember that this process can be used for any CRT based screen not just arcade monitors. If you have any comments, questions or suggestions about degaussing a monitor please leave them below.

When a monitor just has a black screen, it’s a pretty good indication that it’s not getting power. The typical places to start with this kind of issue would be the power cord and the HOT, but lets say that you’ve checked them and they are not your problem. Where do you go from here? In this post, we will discuss how to check diodes on your monitor chassis to make sure that they are in working order.

Checking Diodes On An Arcade Monitor

www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4l-kosl0vg

The diodes we are talking about are located in the power supply section of your monitor chassis. There are usually about 4 or so located right in a row in this section. Examine your monitor chassis and see if you can find them. In the video, ours were located near a large capacitor. Once you have located these diodes, you can check to see if they are shorted or not.

Before we begin, you might want to refer back to our post on Checking Fuses With A Multimeter to get familiar with the diode test settings on a multimeter.

The process of checking a diode is very similar to checking a fuse except that the indicators are reversed. When we checked fuses, we wanted our meter to generate a long beeping sound or a 0 (ZERO) ohm reading. If our meter reads this while we are checking a diode, this indicates that it is shorted and is not working properly. Shorted diodes can be caused by many things including hooking up power to an arcade monitor that requires an isolation transformer. Always be sure that you are using an isolation transformer on monitors that require it.

If you find a shorted diode, you need to replace it. Desolder it from your board using your desoldering iron or solder wick and solder the new one into place. Always make sure that you replace the shorted diode with another one that has the stripes oriented exactly like the original diode. Also, be sure that all of your power wiring to your monitor is correct before turning it back on. Doing this will save you from damaging another diode and having to repeat this process over again. Once you have replaced these shorted diodes you are finished with this part of your repair.

Sometimes a black monitor screen can mean more than just a power cord or HOT issue. Knowing to check your diodes before moving on to more complex repairs can save you lots of time and effort. Please feel free to leave any questions or suggestions in the comments section below.

Repairing arcade monitors relies heavily on your ability to identify where the problem resides. Being able to tell where on a chassis the problem originates from will greatly increase your chances for a successful repair. In this post, we once again visit with our resident monitor repair guy Michael to talk about how to identify and repair some common monitor issues.

More Troubleshooting Monitors With Michael (Part One)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuZjLIzpVOc

More Troubleshooting Monitors With Michael (Part Two)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NLyvHD98rs

Most of the questions we received through the website are related to problems with arcade monitors. Since the topic of monitors is so prevalent, we thought we would once again get together with Michael to discuss some more monitor troubleshooting techniques.

In the picture above we have a horizontally mounted monitor that has what appears to be horizontal lines located in the top half of the screen. It is important to note what direction the lines are running as this will help us determine what section of the chassis we need to focus on. Even though you might think that this problem is located in the horizontal section of the chassis, it is actually related to the vertical section.

Side Note: There is a common misconception that horizontally mounted and vertically mounted monitors are different, however, they are actually the same monitor. The location of the mounting rails and the way the picture is displayed are the only differences between them. The anode (located underneath the suction cup) will always indicated the top of the monitor.

When you have these type of lines running along your screen, these are typically caused by a bad capacitor in the respective section of your chassis. There are many reasons why capacitors go bad. For instance, many electronics manufacturers use cheap capacitors to cut production costs. Also, dust can act like a big blanket on top of your board heating up components and causing them to fail. This is one reason why making sure your game is sufficiently cooled is so important. Please see our post on Installing A Fan In An Arcade Cabinet for more information on cooling.

Lets say we didn’t know that this problem was related to a capacitor, we could always start by identifying what is working with our monitor. Since we are getting a picture, we know that our flyback, anode and tube are probably good and that we are getting power to the monitor. Our colors look pretty accurate so the connections from the PCB and the neck board to the chassis are probably good as well as the neck board itself. This pretty much leaves us with just the chassis. This process-of-elimination technique works very well for troubleshooting the majority of parts in an arcade cabinet.

Now that we’ve identified the problem, we can now begin to track it down on our chassis. As we said before, this problem is more than likely caused by a bad capacitor in the vertical section of our monitor. Some monitors might have this section labeled on the chassis while others will not. A good way to determine the location of the vertical section is to trace down the yoke wires coming off of the tube to the chassis. A green or yellow yoke wire from the tube usually leads to the vertical section of the chassis. Conversely, a blue or red yoke wire usually leads to the horizontal section. These sections have a location number that corresponds with the parts in that section (i.e. the vertical section might be IC600 with the capacitors in the section being number C610). This will help you in determining which parts go with which section.

When we’ve located the vertical section, we can now begin to look at the parts associated with that section. On this particular monitor there were two capacitors located in this section. Using an ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) meter we were able to determine that the 100μf (microfarad) capacitor was bad while it was in circuit. You can also use a multimeter with a capacitance tester to check your capacitors but you must take them out of circuit (i.e. out of the board) to get an accurate reading.

Something we covered in our post on Installing A Cap Kit is the importance of replacing a cap with another cap of the exact same microfarad and in the exact same polarity position. Also remember that the voltage of the new cap does not have to match the voltage of the old cap. As long as the voltage is greater than or equal to the original cap you should be fine. Another reading you should consider when replacing a capacitor is the degrees. The degrees of a capacitor indicates what frequencies the capacitor is rated for. We recommend using 105 degree capacitors as they can handle most of the frequencies used in arcade monitors and power supplies.

Once we replaced the cap on this particular monitor, our picture was as good as new…

Remember you can always install an entire cap kit, however, these kits usually do not contain a replacement cap for every cap on the monitor chassis. Cap kits are usually comprised of capacitors that have a high failure risk. As such, your cap kit might not contain the capacitor you need to solve your particular problem. If you install a cap kit and continue to have the same problem, make sure you check some of the caps that you didn’t replace.

We talked a little bit about the thin horizontal line monitor problem in our original Troubleshooting Monitors With Michael post but thought we would revisit this topic for a moment. Should you have a monitor with this problem, check the vertical IC (Integrated Circuit) chip to see if it is good and if it is getting power. You can check it with a standard multimeter. You can try refreshing the solder around the chip but if that doesn’t work we recommend just replacing the chip altogether.

Learning how to identify problems with arcade monitors and being able to locate the source can save you a lot of time and trouble. With these techniques you should be able to narrow down the scope of your repair to just the trouble spots that are causing your particular issue. Good luck in the future with all of your arcade monitor repairs and if you have any questions please feel free to post them in the comments section below.

When you start troubleshooting your arcade monitor, remember to always start off with the simple fixes before moving on to the more complex ones. Many of us want to install a cap kit before giving the adjustments a tweak or two. In this post, we discuss how to adjust an arcade monitor to achieve the best possible picture.

Adjusting An Arcade Monitor

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUL5TiUYAss

Before you get started, you want to identify what’s wrong with your arcade monitor. The most common problems that can be solved with the monitor adjustments are out of focus, dim or dark picture, scrolling screen and bleeding colors. Obviously if your monitor is not getting power then no amount of adjusting will help you. We recommend checking the power and video wires before making adjustments to make sure that there are no problems in these areas. Also, we would recommend either getting a friend or a mirror to help you with the adjustments. This makes it much easier to know what’s going on with the monitor when you turn an adjustment knob.

First, we’ll start off by locating the focus and brightness controls on the flyback. Locate the flyback on your monitor chassis. It is usually a big black cylinder attached to the anode (located underneath the suction cup) by a red wire. On the flyback there should be two knobs. The top one is usually the focus and the bottom one the brightness. Please see the diagram below.

Some monitors have three knobs on the flyback. If this is the case with your monitor, try turning the knobs just slightly to identify which knob does what.

While there is a brightness on the flyback, there is typically a brightness adjustment on the control board as well. The control board usually contains adjustments for horizontal and vertical hold, brightness and contrast among other things. Control boards can come in a variety of ways. Sometimes they are a separate board attached directly to the chassis or by a group of wires. Other times there are just pots, or potentiometers, soldered directly to the chassis. Please see the diagram below.

If you are having scrolling screen or sync issues, you might try to adjust the horizontal and vertical hold. Everything else on the control board is pretty self explanatory. The contrast is very important if this monitor is located in a light gun game. Light guns depend on a bright monitor to work so make sure that this is adjusted correctly.

Next, let’s take a look at the color adjustments. Color adjustments are usually located on the neck board. The neck board is a small board attached to the back of the tube. Look for some adjustments located either on the top or the edges of this board. These are the color adjustments. Please see the diagram below.

There are typically two adjustments for each color: a drive and a cutoff. The drive affects objects on your screen that are the color of the knob you are adjusting. For instance, if the life bars on your Street Fighter II arcade game are not red enough for your liking, you would want to adjust the red drive. You can think of the cutoff more like the “tint” on your monitor. If there are no red objects on your screen but you see sort of a reddish tint on your monitor then you need to adjust your red cutoff.

One thing to keep in mind is that many games have monitor test screens in their test mode that allow you to easily see adjustments that need to be made. Check your arcade game manual for more information. We also recommend marking your pot and your board with a magic or permanent marker once you have found the adjustments to be to your liking. Some people like to put super glue or silicon on these knobs at this point. We discourage this practice because monitor tubes can change over time and, as such, these adjustments can change. Adding super glue or silicon to your knobs will make an adjustment that should take just a second or two take ten minutes or more.

Taking time to adjust your arcade monitor before doing a cap kit can save you time and money. Make sure you adjust your monitor on a regular basis so you can continue to enjoy your arcade game in the future. If you have any other comments, questions or suggestions about adjusting arcade monitors feel free to leave a message below in our comments section.

Installing a cap kit on your monitor chassis can be a great way to restore washed out colors as well as fix other problems that you might encounter. In this post, we will take a look at how to identify what cap kit you need and how to install it once you have received it.

Installing A Cap Kit

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XArHdR78K9M

Here’s another video from our friend Dan that also shows you how to install a cap kit. Thanks Dan for letting us use it!

Cap Kit (Dan’s YouTube Channel)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3EEPLjJeXg

Before you can install a cap kit you need to identify what cap kit you need. If you know the brand and model of your arcade monitor then getting the correct cap kit is easy. If you do not, however, then your first step is to find out. Look on the monitor frame or tube for any stickers that might indicate a brand and/or model. If you do not see any stickers or still can’t identify it, take out the chassis (please review how to Safely Discharge A Monitor) and compare it to the images on the What’s My Monitor? page on therealbobroberts.net. Bob Roberts is also a great source for cap kits if you need to purchase one.

Once you have identified, ordered, and received your cap kit, it’s time to get started with the installation. Before you start installing your cap kit, we recommend reviewing our post on Your First Arcade Toolbox as it goes over exactly what tools you will need to perform this procedure.

Now, let’s talk about some general information about electrolytic capacitors or caps. Most of the caps that you will receive in your cap kit will have two numbers printed on them. The first number is usually the voltage indicated by the letter v after it. The second number is usually the microfarad indicated by symbol μf after it. Caps also have polarity meaning that there is a positive and negative end. The negative end is usually indicated by the shorter lead and the positive the longer lead. There is also a stripe on the cap itself that will usually indicate the negative lead.

It is important to note that you must replace a cap with another cap of the exact same microfarad and in the exact same polarity position. Should you use a cap with the wrong microfarad or place it in the wrong polarity position your monitor will end up in worse shape than when you started. Another important note is that the voltage of the new cap does not have to match the voltage of the old cap. As long as the voltage is greater than or equal to the original cap you should be fine.

With all of that said, let’s replace our first cap. The first thing you want to do is locate a cap that you want to replace. A bad electrolytic capacitor will often swell or bulge at the top or leak out of the bottom, however, they can still be bad even if they don’t look bad. If you have an ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) meter you can test the cap before you remove it to see if it’s bad or not. Since caps are so cheap, however, it’s good to just go ahead and replace them all. Use either a desoldering iron or solder wick to remove the solder from around the leads of the original cap. Be careful not to pull up or damage the trace on the board as this can cause problems. Once that is done, remove the cap making sure that you note the polarity position of the negative and the positive leads.

Look through your cap kit and locate a cap that has the same microfarad and the same or greater voltage as the original cap. Put the new cap in the same place and polarity position as the original cap. Pull the leads up through the holes and bend them away from each other so that the cap stays in place. Solder the leads to the board using your soldering iron and some solder. Once the solder cools, clip the protruding part of the leads from the board using some wire cutters and you’re done with one cap. Continue repeating this process until you have used all the caps in your cap kit.

While applying a cap kit to a monitor will not fix every monitor problem, it can help with issues such as washed out colors, vertical drop, and/or lines across the top of the screen. Now you can fix these common issues yourself without too much trouble. Do you have any other comments or suggestions about installing a cap kit? Please leave them below in our comments section.

Knowing where to start when your monitor goes out can be a valuable time saver when repairing arcade games. In this post, our resident monitor repair guy Michael will give us some quick tips on how to troubleshoot some common issues.

Troubleshooting Monitors With Michael

www.youtube.com/watch?v=nu7A-hcmhHM

There is not a whole lot of difference between an arcade monitor and a regular tv. The same electronic principles used in arcade monitors are also used in televisions. Knowing how to repair arcade monitors can help in repairing not just older televisions but newer televisions as well.

If your arcade monitor won’t come on, a good place to start is in the power supply. Follow the power cord from the connector to the chassis. This should lead you to the primary power supply. Check to see if there is a fuse around this area. If so, check the fuse to see if it is bad or good. If the fuse is bad, replacing it might not solve your problem. There is always a reason why a fuse blows. Check the surrounding components and make sure that they are not shorted to ground before replacing the fuse. You can refer to our article on Checking Fuses With A Multimeter for more information on fuses.

We have already talked about how dangerous arcade monitors can be in our Safely Discharge An Arcade Monitor post, however, this point can not be reiterated enough. Please be careful around the suction cup as it contains an anode that goes to the monitor tube. The wire coming out of the suction cup is attached to the flyback. A flyback can put out a large amount of volts depending on the chassis. If you suspect flyback trouble, the first thing to check is the HOT (Horizontal Output Transistor) with a standard multimeter to see if it’s shorted. If it is shorted, that’s a good indication that you have a bad flyback. If you hear a hissing noise around the flyback that might indicate that the casing is cracked. If upon futher examination you find that the casing is in fact cracked, replace the flyback.

Another good thing to know is that while cap kits can be helpful they will not fix everything. Some signs that might you need a cap kit include washed out colors, vertical drop, and/or lines across the top of the screen. A bad electrolytic capacitor will often swell or bulge at the top or leak out of the bottom, however, they can still be bad even if they don’t look bad. It’s a good idea to go ahead and replace all the caps if you are going to do one. A cap kit is easy to do and cap kits are pretty inexpensive.

If your monitor only displays a thin horizontal line in the middle, check the IC (Integrated Circuit) that powers the vertical to see if it is good and to see if it is getting power. You can check it with a standard multimeter.

You don’t need expensive tools to work on monitors. A good soldering iron and a multimeter will allow you to troubleshoot the majority of arcade monitor problems. ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) meters also help as they allow you to check capacitors in circuit so you don’t have to desolder and remove them to see if they are bad.

Well, good luck in the future with all of your arcade monitor troubleshooting. If you have any questions for Michael, please feel free to post them in the comments section below.

Working on arcade monitors can be a dangerous endeavor. The first and most important step when working on an arcade monitor is to discharge it so you can safely remove it (or just the chassis) from your arcade game.

Safely Discharge An Arcade Monitor

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV9Td8vAb0Y

First off, if you are not comfortable around electricity please consult professional help. While the process is not difficult it is highly dangerous as you could be shocked or even electrocuted. Please consult professional help if you have any doubts about being able to carry out this process.

Secondly, make sure that you are wearing rubber soled shoes and that you have removed any jewelry (such as rings or watches). Remember, you don’t want anything metal that’s attached to you to come into contact with that monitor! Also, it’s always good to wear Personal Protective Equipment (or PPE) if you have access to it. Rubber gloves and eye goggles are highly recommended especially if you are nervous about doing this in the first place.

With all of the safety talk out of the way, let us continue…

Before you touch anything in the arcade cabinet, make sure the power is switched off and the game is unplugged. Also make sure that you have assembled your monitor discharge tool and have an insulated flat-head screwdriver to use with it. For more information on this, please view our post on Your First Arcade Toolbox.

Now that you have your monitor discharge tool and insulated flat-head screwdriver, take the alligator clip on one end of the monitor discharge tool and attach it to an unpainted portion of the metal monitor frame. Take the alligator clip on the other end of the monitor discharge tool and attach it to the metal part of your insulated flat-head screwdriver.

With the insulated flat-head screwdriver in your hand, move the end of the screwdriver towards the suction cup and the anode. The anode is the wire covered by the suction cup that goes into the monitor tube. Slide the flat-head of the screwdriver underneath the suction cup. You should get either hear a loud pop or see a blue flash. Please note that these results do not occur on every monitor. After you have touched the anode with the screwdriver, remove the screwdriver and wait a couple of minutes then repeat. It’s good to do this a couple of times as sometimes residual charge can build up after the initial pop.

Once you have finished this process, you can be assured that you have successfully discharged your arcade monitor. Once you have discharged your arcade monitor, you will be on your way to repairing your arcade monitor and ultimately to playing your arcade game.